DaveīTW, Mom was from Kingston and Dad was from Larksville, just up the Susquehanna from you. If you take the switch off and have someone rotate the gear lever, you should plainly see them at the 'switch window'.īTW, Mom was from Kingston and Dad was from Larksville, just up the Susquehanna from you. There should be a visible protrusion that sticks out of the inner sleeve that pushes on the switch to make the contacts open and close. Neutral Switches have their own contacts internal to the switch, and they don't use ground for an electrical connection. When done, you might find maybe a few cars that need slight adjustment out of 1,000 per day (two shifts). These are wide body 108 + with 3’ aluminum ramps. Self assembly, drip trays included, 4 casters to roll it around and sliding Jack plate, double locking mechanism on all 4 of the 9 foot vertical posts. The assemblers make these tasks look easy, with no wasted movements, but each worker does 500 cars per shift. Best pricing I’ve gotten on the ones I am looking at will be around 5500 +/. Each one of these operations takes under one minute to do on the assembly line. Then the transmission linkage is adjusted to the column (sleeve), and finally the steering wheel is held straight while the front end is aligned at the tie rods. When we build cars, the column goes in first. Your column moves because every car is built from stacks of sheet metal, so every car body is different but within tolerances. Notice that your Neutral Switch is screwed to the column and there is an allowance for adjustment. Otherwise, the bolts that hold the column to the dash should be loosened and the whole column will rotate.
1958 FORD THUNDERBIRD NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH MANUAL
There should be a setup procedure in your Shop Manual for the steering column. Simply loosening a Squarebird column by two screws, pulling the housing to the driver's chest and tightening the same two screws fixed it. If you have power there it could be a bad solenoid. We have had Squarebird columns drop down so far, the horn no longer worked because the horn brush broke contact with the steering wheel contact plate. redstangbob wrote:I think you might have the wires a little mixed up Art, the brown wire gives the coil 12 volts while cranking, the red-blue closes the relay to run the starter.Mickey try a test light at that red-blue wire while trying to start with the key. The inner shaft controls the steering box, the inner sleeve controls the shifter arms and finally, the outer housing controls mounting stability and how the 'PRNDL' looks to the driver.
Think in terms of the guy on the assembly line, installing these columns. When everything is in sync, it all works great.
Todd, there is a 'dance' that steering columns go through. If not readjust right or left and try again.not sure we are talking about the same type of switch.mine is on the bottom of the colunm half way down above the break petal there is no nylon rod that i see just the switch held by the two screws you can adjust as you desrcibed Then test the operation you should be able to operate the starter in P and N. Don't over-tighten because these are easy to strip. Put the shift lever on low and loosen the two screws holding the switch body in place, center it, then tighten the screws. In park it slides the switch way over to the left. With the shift lever in low the clip does not contact the rod at all. The stem is acted on by a small steel clip screwed to the inner column tube, and that tube is turned by the shift lever. The switch has a nylon rod sticking out the front that is the "stem" of the sliding switch. I don't understand why the black-yellow wire (37) splits and goes to the fuse panel either.The switch is mounted on top of the column (outer tube) near the firewall and held in place with two small screws in slotted holes so you can adjust it about 1/4" right-left. Since I have an automatic is this switch behind the cone piece on the steering wheel or further down the steering column?Īlso, there is a black-yellow wire (37) that, according to the wiring diagram, goes from the ignition through a main disconnect and splits down to the fuse panel and seems to terminate that split there, but also goes through another main disconnect on to the junction black and splits to the starter relay and alternator.Īre these the two places I should most likely be focusing on? The car does turn over and run if I jump the starter relay. So, there is a red-blue wire (32) that goes from the ignition switch to the starter neutral switch. We tried tracing it down for a while last night and stopped when the darkness came thinking it may be that it is not recognizing the car is in Park or Neutral. Me again, my sons and I put a new ignition switch in the car the other day, and some of the accessories work (fans, interior lights, etc.) when the key is turned on, but when we click over to try and start it does just that (click).
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